Mexican-ish food is both hugely popular in the United States and spreading wildly, but that’s raised a lot of concerns about the authenticity (or lack thereof) of various popular dishes. But William Booth argues that this is largely misguided and authentic cuisine has always been a moving target.

Tacos al pastor apparently date back only to Mexico City in the 1950s—a consequence of Lebanese immigration to Pueblo in the ’30s. That makes them hardly any more traditional than Taco Bell, founded in 1962.

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