I went to watch a play called “Too much love … kills” by Ghassan Rahbani featuring Melhem Barakat in Baalbeck last thursday and i must say it was a very dissapointing trip. I enjoyed my friends’ company and all but the trip is just not worth it. The only thing that’s worthy visiting in Baalbeck is the temple and to be more specific inside the temple. Everything surrounding it and outside it is just disgusting. You feel like you’ve landed in Bab el Tebbeneh or worse.
I left Beirut around 5:30 and went by bus with Nakhal tours to Baalbeck. The trip took around 2 hours and a half and included a stop at Massabni in Zahle for a small snack. Once there, we have to walk all the way from the parking to the entrance and it is a very unpleasant walk. Lots of smells and kids selling corn and S7eeha B3albakiyye which is some sort of Lahm Baajine. It is usually delicious but when i saw the stands selling it and then wrapping it in newspapers, i didn’t feel like eating them at all.
At the entrance of the temple, i spotted a Hezbollah museum. I am quite sure it is illegal to place political stands near cultural sites but i wasn’t surprised to see one. It is quite impressive the things Lebanese do to keep away tourists.
Nevertheless, the amphitheatre is breath-taking along with the temples and majestic columns and you really forget all about the outside when you are in. The play was not the greatest i’ve seen. Ghassan Rahbani was trying too hard to impress and it was a bit messed up but it was enjoyable to watch still.
The way back was quicker and took around an hour and a half. Overall, one can easily go by car to Baalbeck unlike what most people claim but believe me it’s not worth it one single bit.
They still have the hezbollah museum at the entrance?
It’s not worth going to Baalbeck at all? I’ve been here for seven months and I still haven’t made the trip..I’ve been saving it for when my family comes..but the walk you described may be a bit of a problem..seeing that my grandparents are older..man..was really hoping you wouldn’t say that! I thought it was one of the “must do” things here in Lebanon!
Seeing and hearing too much of ghassan rahbanni… would kill me!
What happened to his “pimping” business?
Yes Elie they still do and what i dont get is how most of the souvenir shops there sell Hezbollah items. Is that really the souvenir you want from Baalbeck?
Danielle Baalaback is Great, as Najib said “Nevertheless, the amphitheatre is breath-taking along with the temples and majestic columns and you really forget all about the outside when you are in. ”
When I went, the Bus managed to drop us at the entrance so I didn’t have to walk a lot to reach the temple, maybe Najib had to walk because of the festival (they can’t let everyone drop people at the entrance it would cause a huge traffic jam) so IMO you should go to Baalback but you should know that even if you get dropped at the entrance you’ll still have a lot of walking to do inside the ruins.
Yes Najib, didn’t you know that European and Americans like to return home with a Hezbollah Hat and T-Shirt? + You have people selling stolen (or forged) historical coins at the entrance, We want tourists to literally keep a part of Lebanon with them when they leave!
Baalbeck is an oasis in the middle of Hezbollah territory. The temple itself is magnificent and MUST be seen, but Baalbeck town itself is awful. See the temple, and adjoining museum (the real one, financed by Deutsche Bank) and then leave immediately!
Drive back to Zahle and have an amazing lunch at Mhanna, with some local Ksara wine!
@danielle – i second zaydoun’s proposal, but add a recommendation to hit up aanjar (ummayad ruins) as well if your family has the energy. plus, there is an unwritten but delicious law that you have to stop for labne sandwiches in chtaura on any trip from bey to baalbeck.
outside of festival days, you can usually park across the street from the entrance. your family will LOVE baalbeck, but do be prepared to explain the martyr portraits lining the road that will serve as your first ‘welcome’ to the city… historically i’ve found that’s the part of baalbeck that makes foreigners most uneasy.